Thursday, March 8, 2012

Tamil Nadu: The Irula Snake-Catchers Industrial Cooperative Society

Now, where was I?



Sometimes, conservation efforts get a lot wrong.  The Irula Snake-Catchers Industrial Cooperative Society is an example of getting a heck of a lot right.  Conserving land and animals often means displacing people or  taking away their livelihood.  Below is an excerpt from the Madras Crocodile Bank's website about the Irula snake catchers (http://www.madrascrocodilebank.org/cms/conservation-and-research-2/the-irulas/):

"The Irula Snake-Catchers Industrial Cooperative Society (ISCICS)
The Irulas are the pre Dravidian inhabitants of the scrub jungles of Southern India. Hunter-gatherers by tradition, their expertise in catching snakes is legendary. Prior to the Indian Wildlife Protection Act of 1972, the Irulas were one of the leading suppliers of snake skins to the global exotic skin industry. So successful were they that the hunting of snakes for their skins was eventually banned in 1972 to prevent the local extinction of several species. This deprived them of their main source of livelihood and initially the outlook for these skilled hunters was bleak.

In 1978 the Irulas, along with Romulus Whitaker and Revathy Mukherji, sought the help of the Department of Industries and Commerce to start a self employment scheme using their traditional knowledge. Thus was born the Irulas Snake-Catchers Industrial Cooperative Society which was officially registered on 19 December 1978.

The main objectives of this co-operative were to harness the traditional skills of the Irulas positively, accord a dignity to their indigenous knowledge and to provide them with a means of social and economic upliftment. In time a specialist snake handling facility was constructed at the Croc Bank to maintain snakes for venom extraction and to market the venom to various laboratories around India. In addition, their traditional skills together with their knowledge of indigenous wildlife were promoted as valuable resources for naturalists and government agencies involved in wildlife work. More recently they have become a popular tourist attraction at the Croc Bank, demonstrating their skills of snake-catching and milking to visitors.

The ISCICS focuses its efforts on the four common species of venomous snakes that account for the majority of snakebite related deaths in India. The Big Four include the Indian cobra, Naja naja, Russells viper, Daboia  russelli, common krait, Bungarus caeruleus and saw scaled viper, Echis carinatus. The required species and number of individuals needed are decided by a committee and members are informed on a monthly basis.  The licensed members then go out and catch the snakes which are then sold to the society at an agreed fixed rate. Once purchased, the snakes are kept in individual earthen pots in a snake pit. The length, weight, sex and site of capture are recorded at the time of purchase. Each snake is marked with a unique code clipped into its ventral scales.  Venom is extracted from each snake once a week for four weeks. Snakes are then released at predetermined sites in Reserve Forests nearby, in the presence of a Forest Ranger.

Venom, once collected, is freeze dried and stored at 10ยบ C in the freeze chamber of a Lyophilizer. This turns it into minute crystals. The crystallized venom is gathered in airtight bottles and stored in a refrigerator. The society sells the venom to a number of laboratories for preparation of antivenin and for medical research."

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Milking demonstrations are performed under a thatched roof.  The pavilion's sandy floor is about four feet below ground level,  and has concrete walls.  Visitors stand at the concrete wall (a little less than waist-high) and look down into the pavilion to observe the demonstration.

 Collected snakes are stored in large clay pots that are secured with cloth lids.  Records of capture date, sex and weight of the animal are kept simply by writing on the clay pots with chalk.


This was hanging from the pedestal where they milked the snakes.


I loved how these two cobras were kind enough to pose so we could compare their dorsal and ventral scales.


The two snake handlers who were giving the milking demonstration.


Cobra milking.









Common krait


Russell's Viper


Saw-scaled Viper


Outside the Crocodile bank, a few venders sell coconut and fresh fruit.  Kieran is in yellow, Lakhdeep in blue, and Milan in red.


A cow finds a meal in the fruit stand trash.


A sleeping baby.  Many of the babies here are adorned with bracelets and anklets.



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We decided to stop once more in Mamallapuram for lunch before heading south towards Pondicherry.  Those Babra boys love their calamari, and the idea of eating another meal of fresh caught fish was too enticing to pass up.





Lakhdeep walked over to the yoga studio across the street to take our photo. 

Left to right:  Kieran, Isabelle, Annie, Alexis, Henrietta and Milan



Next stop?  DUNE

Friday, January 13, 2012

Tamil Nadu: Madras Crocodile Bank Trust

Henrietta, Lakhdeep, Milan, Kieran and Isabelle


We’ve been home for a week now and yet I still keep stopping myself from running tap water on my toothbrush.  I look around, notice that there is no water bottle next to the sink, and smile at the convenience of having safe water at the turn of a knob!  Resuming our lives, we've been to work, school, the grocer's and the pet shop... jet lag is no longer a viable excuse for procrastination. 

Our next stop in Tamil Nadu was the Madras Crocodile Bank Trust.  Our dear friend Bruce Schwedick was kind enough to put us in contact with the Trust’s current director, Colin Stevenson.  Colin was extremely generous with his time and we spent the morning following him around the facility and learning more about crocodile conservation in India.

A little history:  In the 1970s, after nearly 100 years of hunting crocodilians for fashion accessories, India’s three indigenous crocs were on the brink of extinction.  The three species of Indian crocodilians are the mugger (Crocodylus palustris), the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) and the gharial (Gavialis gangeticas), with current wild population estimates at less than 250.   The Trust was established in 1976 by Romulus and Zai Whittaker.  One of their adult sons (Nikhil) currently acts as curator of the Trust.  For those of you interested in more information, please go to:  http://www.madrascrocodilebank.org/cms/.  The facility has an impressive and interesting history.

Upon arriving at the facility, we were escorted through the keeper area to a small office building and introduced to Colin.  He is a native of Australia, and part of me was expecting the caricature likes of Steve Irwin/Crocodile Dundee, but instead we saw a quiet, studious-looking man who, if he ever uses the word “Crikey!”, I am sure he saves it for very special occasions.

The Madras Crocodile Bank Trust currently houses 18 of the world's 23 crocodile species.  It is a research and breeding facility, but also acts as a working zoo and hosts about half a million visitors each year.  The layout of the zoo is charming. Sandy paths weave through green pools with walls built of local stone and brick.  Mature trees offer natural shade throughout the facility.  Enjoy!

Mugger on the move

The signage was adorable!


Tomistoma
Enclosure example.  Colin said the iron fences were just added a few years ago.

Tail scales
Surprisingly few missing limbs for such a high density mugger exhibit!
Morelet's Crocodile
Camera Two, kids!  Camera Two!!
Gharial
Jaws III
Colin giving us a tour.
As kids, my siblings and I used to pile onto my parents' bed on Saturday mornings.  We would always say we were like the alligators at the zoo.  This pile of muggers reminded me of those cold Midwestern Saturdays.
Dangerous animals!
Why do Tomistoma remind me of dolphins??



The "dangerous animals" in our group were picked off by a strange new species... one by one.  
Milan, the oldest, went first.
Isabelle wasn't going down without a fight (or a scream).
Kieran... keeping it cool.
This kingfisher was visiting the Trust the same day as us!
The underwater viewing area for the Gharial exhibit.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Tamil Nadu, Part 1




Our first trip out of Delhi was to Tamil Nadu.  Tamil Nadu is in the south east, and closest to Sri Lanka.  We flew into Chennai (Madras), which is the capital and the largest city in the state.

Due to fog, our flight was delayed by several hours.  The kids were good sports though, and spent most of the time reading.

Isabelle, Kieran and Milan
 We flew IndiGo, an airline that capitalizes on the nostalgic notion of being part of the jetset, complete with flight attendants that look identical to each other with matching outfits and black bob wigs.  Their most recent commercial is fun and captures the image they are going for.

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We had good visibility coming into Chennai, so I experimented with the "airplane" setting on my new camera.

Colorful buildings in Chennai



After locating our driver at the airport, we drove south to Mamallapuram, where we spent a night at the Mamalla Beach Resort. The term "resort" in India seems to mean a hotel that has a restaurant and a pool.

An exhausted Isabelle waiting for us to check in
Flower petals floating in water are a common welcome
We headed straight to the beach before the sun sank, and enjoyed some spicy chick peas and beer.

Isabelle, Kieran, Lakhdeep, Henrietta & Alexis
Henrietta and Annie
Spicy chickpeas... delicious in moderation.
We drove in to Mamallapuram in search of the Bob Marley Cafe, but couldn't find it, so we ate at Santana instead.  (I know!  Who chose these names??)  We picked a fish and some giant prawns from a table and were served a family-style meal. Mamallapuram proper is not very different in feel to many Central American beach towns. The place was crawling with traveling trustafarians!  Souvenir shops were sprinkled in between restaurants with rooftop views of the Bay of Bengal, and you couldn't throw a rock without hitting a yoga studio. The one thing that anchored this town as its own place was the numerous stone carving studios. 



We chose the big one in the foreground, along with prawns.

Still jet-lagged, we went to bed early and woke up in time to watch the sunrise.  We had a traditional southern Indian breakfast of dosas, fruit, ada (cabbage pancakes) and masala omelets.  






I can't close this post without sharing a photo of the sight of Isabelle's inaugural "ladle shower".  She thought I was joking when I instructed her on how to bathe in this bathroom, and she did her best at trying to convince me a shower wasn't necessary after all.